I'd like to thank my
patreon subscribers
for their support and so I'm going to
make a batch of these iron on transfer
logos that you can apply to your own lab
coat at the end of July 2015 everyone
who subscribed at the $3 for video level
or higher and has entered their mailing
address will receive one of these logos
head over to patreon to see more details
about this thanks very much I really
appreciate it also on my Twitter feed
you may have seen that I took some
scanning electron micrographs of a CD
DVD and a blu-ray disc and I'll put the
high-resolution images on my blog as
well and put a link in the description
as you can see the fit density is quite
a bit higher on blu-ray and the the jump
or the difference between blu-ray and
DVD is actually quite a bit higher than
DVD and CD the first tool that I'd like
to talk about is this digital angle
gauge as you can see it's just a box
with a digital readout and some magnets
on the bottom and the idea is that you
stick it down to a table saw surface and
zero it and then stick it to the blade
and you can even push it down so that
it's Square to the table and then it
will read off the angle that the blade
is currently at so this is way more
accurate than the bevel gauge that's on
the table saw and it reads off in tenths
of a degree which is super useful
because for doing boxes and those things
that require very tight miter angles you
can really dial it in and get it
accurate it also works really well on
band saws on jointer setups and even on
glue ups where you have a little bit of
flexibility in your jig and you want to
make sure that your glue up is right at
90 pipe threads are sort of a barbaric
way to make a seal but it is cheap and
easy and it does work
with one problem in a standard pipe
thread joint when you screw this
together there will actually be a spiral
leak path that goes around because the
two surfaces don't touch each other the
pipe and the fitting don't actually
touch a hundred percent all along the
pipe fitting so these are actually
designed to be used with a sealing
compound and the job of that compound is
to take up that last little gap between
the pipe and the fitting and prevent the
gas or liquid from taking that spiral
path through the thread gap out to the
outside so one good brand of pipes
ile compound is rector seal this is good
stuff McMaster also sells compounds that
are specifically made for plastic to
plastic pipe joints also you may have
seen or used a teflon tape and a lot of
people will claim that this actually
isn't even designed for sealing pipe
however it does work pretty well and
there's something else you should be
aware of if you buy a standard teflon
tape at your local hardware store you're
likely getting a fairly cheap grade of
it a fairly low density of teflon
however if you buy this from McMaster
for example they sell it in commercial
grade standard military grade and a
premium military grade and know this
actually isn't an $800 toilet seat this
is actually worthwhile the higher the
grade the higher the density of the
teflon so this premium military grade
stuff is a little bit thicker but it's
actually much more dense and so if
you've worked with this tape before the
denser stuff one is just easier to
handle it doesn't stick to things quite
as ridiculously and also if you're doing
large-diameter pipe sealing I find that
the premium grade works a whole lot
better you don't need to use as many
turns and hence you get a better seal
also be aware that there's a different
kind of pipe thread out there that is
designed not to be used with compound
it's called dry seal or NPT F which is
national pipe thread fuel and the
difference is that the major and minor
diameters of this thread are slightly
different than standard NPT so that when
you screw them together there's actually
an interference fit so that the pipe
threads will actually cut into the
fitting slightly and eliminate that
spiral gap the trouble is that if you
put it together and take it apart once
or twice you may not get that good seal
anymore because the interference fit has
already been done once and then when you
take it apart and put it back together
you may not get that so I've had limited
experience trying dry seal without
sealant I usually find it's better just
to go with standard NPT and then use a
sealant of some kind you may not be
aware of it hot glue actually comes in
colors other than translucent and so
black is actually a really useful color
to have in the shop as well on a side
note I don't recommend this brand of hot
glue gun there is a sure bonder on
Amazon that seems the best I've also
tried the 75 dollar model on McMaster
and actually prefer the shure bonder and
so as usual I'll put links to all this
stuff in the description one example of
a use for black hot glue is if you're
doing a project that involves LEDs
coming through a panel like this and you
don't want optical crosstalk between
neighboring LEDs you can use some black
hot glue on the backside and cover that
thing up with something that's optically
opaque so that you don't get crosstalk
also if you're doing any sort of optics
project and you want to seal the box up
this makes a really good light tight
seal for the box this is magnetic viewer
film that made an appearance in one of
my other videos kind of more of a toy
than a tool but it does have some cool
uses this is a magnet from a speaker
that looks like it might be sort of
uniformly actually magnetized but when
we put the magnetic viewer film on it
you can see that it's actually got
sections in it kind of neat also if
you've gotten one of these cheap sort of
printed magnets this is like a flexible
rubberized magnet that came in the mail
you might also think this is very simple
but check out what happens under the
viewer film you can see that it actually
has alternating poles north south north
south in a very rapid sort of pattern
and I've heard a few conflicting
theories as to why these are built this
way one is that the the field sort of
cancel out the farther away you get from
the magnet so since they don't want this
you know demagnetizing credit cards and
affecting you know the mail and all
kinds of stuff if they put north-south
poles here it kind of you know cancels
out so the field dies off very quickly
another theory is that with the
north-south poles so close together if
you put this on a steel object you'll
actually get more adhesion more magnetic
pull force because the magnetic circuit
is shorter because it's you know it's a
short path from north to south
I think I'll talk more about this in a
future magnetics video another cool use
with the film is to sort of spy on
electronics and so this is my cell phone
you can kind of see by waving the film
around that there's something magnetic
going on in the phone and you know it's
not exactly a surprise what it is I mean
there's you know speakers there's a
speaker there
and then at the top is probably the
handset speaker and I think that's
pretty much all this phone has you
should try it on newer cell phones that
have more gizmos than this if you need
to make a bunch of twisted wiring
harnesses a way to save time is to use a
drill to do the twisting so I've just
got these three equal length pieces of
wire and the vise and then chopped up in
the drill and then all you have to do is
just apply a little tension and let er
rip you may find yourself in a situation
where you need to know which side of the
line is hot and which side is neutral in
this case the plug is polarized but you
may suspect it's wrong or you might be
working on an older house that doesn't
have polarized plugs or even a new house
that just doesn't even have plugs
installed yet so here's a quick trick to
figure this out just with a standard
neon tester if you touch one side of the
tester with your fingers and then put
the other side into the socket
you can see there we didn't get a light
but if we move over to this side you can
see the as I put it in and take it out
you can see a flashing a bit there so
what's happening is your body is acting
as a large capacitor and you're actually
getting a tiny amount of current to flow
through the neon tester now remember
that there's a current limiting resistor
in this so don't do this with just a
plain neon bulb or you'll get a really
good you'll know which side of the line
is hot basically if you do it that way
and of course for the safety-conscious
there do exist these testers where you
can just plug this in and it will
diagnose all the possible problems and
so reversed hot neutral open ground on
and on I've always had trouble cutting
large diameter tubing like this is just
soft nylon tubing and it doesn't really
work very well with scissors like this
I've actually broken pairs of scissors
by leaning on them too hard to cut this
and also like heavier duty snips don't
really do a great job because they
aren't sharp enough and so the tubing
just sort of folds over and it doesn't
cut very well and then finally you can
try sort of hacking away at it with a
knife like this but for large diameters
this doesn't work and you'll end up with
a nasty edge
so I recently found a tool on McMaster
that really works super well for this
this is basically a very long razor
blade that comes down on a plastic anvil
like this and it's basically perfectly
suited for cutting soft tubing and so
the amount of control that you have in a
cut like this is really nice it leaves a
super clean edge takes very little force
to cut and you can even just get the
length exactly the way you need it
really quite sweet my dad recently gave
me this switch contact burnisher and
I've used this quite a bit in
refurbishing the scanning electron
microscope and so the idea is that if
you're cleaning an old relayer or a
switch it's a bad idea to use sandpaper
on there because it ruins the coating on
the switch or relay contacts so what you
really want to do is use something like
this burnisher which has just the ever
slightest amount of abrasive quality I
think it's more like a knife iron that
just sort of pushes the metal around and
then follow it up with some contact
cleaner
I like D oxide brand but this is I think
almost about the same stuff you've
probably noticed that most cordless
drill trucks won't close down on very
small drill bits so I actually had to do
quite a bit of searching but I finally
found basically a pin vise that is small
enough and easy enough to use and also
clamps down to zero so that you can grip
really tiny drill bits with it okay see
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