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Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Waterjet cutter built with a cheap pressure washer-----make money online

Waterjet cutter built with a cheap pressure washer-----make money online

today on Applied Science I'm going to
talk about water jet cutters everyone
wants one but they're too big and
expensive so for a long time I've wanted

to try building one out of the low-cost
pressure washer and today the results
are in so let's take a quick look here
we're cutting sixteenth inch thick
aluminum and we're cutting at about two
inches per minute and using about 0.4
pounds per minute of abrasive and the
system is operating around 3,200 psi
here's the same setup have an eighth
inch thick aluminum and we're going
about half 1/2 the cutting speed so
about one inch per minute and everything
else is about the same
here we're cutting 3/8 inch thick
hardwood I think this might be Pella and
the machine also operates in water only
mode and so then we can cut soft
materials like foam and it really tears
through I can't even measure how fast
it's cutting it because it's almost
faster than I can move it you know
accurately with my hands it also cuts
things like breads no problem
so not bad at all actually quite usable
of course a commercial machine is much
faster than this but if you're using us
at home for hobby projects production
speed isn't really much of an issue and
having a water jet cutter lets you cut
materials in shapes that just would
otherwise not be possible so let's get
into the details and talk about how I
built this let's start off with our
pressure source so whereas a commercial
water jet machine might cost $150,000
this pressure washer costs 150 dollars
shipped it's rated at 2,000 psi at 1.7
gallons per minute and it's one of the
most popular electric pressure washers
on Amazon initially I thought I might be
able to connect the pressure washer
right up to the cutting head but as it
turns out there's one modification we
have to make in order to get a usable
system so I disassembled the plastic
case and took out the pump and motor
assembly here's the assembly and it
slides out of the housing pretty easily
it also has this little water guard on
top that just I just pulled off and I
also added an additional cooling fan to
the top so you can see it actually has
its own fan built-in in here but since
we're running the motor quite a bit
harder than it was originally designed
to run I added this extra cooling fan
not super critical though so here's the
main modification originally this
pressure washer system had a feature
that when you let go of the trigger the
pump would stop running and the pressure
in the system would be vented and then
when you squeeze the trigger again the
pump would start up and you'd be back up
to full pressure it's actually a clever
little trick but as you can see there's
no electrics there's no you know button
or electrical signal it's done all
through pressure in the system here's
what the modification looks like now
I've got a spring that's pressing on
this plastic button here so I'm going to
take this apart and then take out the
guts of what's inside this valve housing
so that we can see what it looks like
and I'll explain what it did originally
okay so originally this brass piece was
inside here and then this piece is
pressed down like that and so you can
see there's a hole in the end of the
brass piece and this white plastic
plunger is pressed into that hole and on
the other side of this hole is the high
pressure side of the system so when it's
running normally this thing functions
like a relief valve right because you've
got a spring here and the spring is
pressing on the plastic which is sealing
the hole shut but if the pressure on the
other side of the hole is high enough it
will actually push the plastic away and
then the water escapes past the thing
here so it functions like a relief valve
but there's an interesting twist the
surface area suddenly changes you can
see this plastic part fits in here and
there's even an o-ring that seals on it
so what happens is as soon as the valve
starts to open a little bit the area
that's exposed to the pressure side
suddenly increases because currently
it's just a cone closing off that hole
but when the pressure goes up it pushes
the plunger down and now it's exposing
this much larger surface area so it's
like positive feedback so as soon as you
reach the set pressure this plunger
moves a lot and now it's it has a much
higher area so that pressure really
pushes it far and it does two things one
the white button will stick out at the
end here and there's an electrical
switch that's attached to it like this
and the electrical switch is just held
in by an o-ring it's just pressure fit
in there you can kind of see that yellow
tab of plastic in there so the button
comes out presses presses the electrical
switch cuts power to the motor and
there's a little vent hole in the side
here so that as the plunger is back all
the high pressure is vented out of the
system and then after it vents enough
this thing will close past that hole and
maintain about one or two hundred psi on
the system so then the next time you
squeeze the trigger it goes down to zero
it vents off that one or two hundred psi
and
plunger moves all the way back into its
home position the switch closes and then
starts the motor up again so pretty
clever it's a pressure safety relief an
unloader valve and a motor control valve
all in one moving piece of plastic so
the modification is to convert this into
just a plain old pressure relief valve
so in the original one you can see that
the white plastic plunger fits fairly
snugly in there and even if you remove
the o-ring it still fits snugly enough
where you'll have this positive feedback
effect and as soon as the valve opens it
slams itself way open and you'll get
oscillations in the pump so I turned
this copper copy of the brass piece and
it has a larger internal diameter so now
the plunger just fits loose in there and
the cone of this thing sits down into
that hole that's in the end and if
there's too much pressure it will push
on the plunger and push it out of the
way and relieve the pressure but it
doesn't have this same positive feedback
effect I kept the original spring and as
it turns out the spacing is a little bit
different in mine so I was getting
slightly higher pressure than the
original system pressure just with the
modification just by changing this part
but then I wanted even more pressure and
so I added I had this thing to the
outside that would add more spring
pressure bias to this thing so that we
were pressing even harder on it and I
was eventually shooting for about 3,200
maybe even 3500 psi the motor is a
brushed universal type motor and it
originally had this pressure cutouts
which is just in line with it which I
just shortened out because we don't need
the switch anymore and normally it runs
about 14 or 15 amps at a hundred and
twenty volts sixty Hertz AC but since
we're raising the pressure and the flow
rate is almost about the same it's
actually drawing quite a bit more power
now I put a clamp reader on there and
about 20 or 21 amps at 128 volts so this
is definitely a little beyond what we're
you know a little bit beyond what the
electrical circuit is SPECT for right
it's a 20 amp breaker so you can't
really draw 20 or 21 amps out of it for
very long so in all these test cuts I've
really just been running it for a few
minutes at a time
I added the extra fan of course because
we are pushing this motor quite a bit
harder than it was ever designed for you
can also see this thing is sitting in a
tub of water because it did spring a
leak under high pressure it doesn't leak
when it's running it sort of more normal
pressures but when I pushed it up to you
know 3500 its sprung a leak which has
the interesting effect of being
self-regulating because once it starts
leaking the pressure goes down and then
it doesn't leak as fast anymore so it
actually wasn't as big of a disaster as
it seems also this little thing doesn't
really play a role in what we're doing
it's a soap adding device so if the
pressure in the line is very low it acts
like a venturi in it it actually sucks
soapy water into the solution if you
want to you know soap your car up or
something 3200 psi is actually a good
pressure for this system because the
hose itself is only rated for 2,900
working and you know they have big
safety margins on these things and also
unlike a compressed gas system if you
have a rupture in a in a hydraulic
system you don't really have that
explosive force because the liquid is
not very compressible so keep in mind
that compressed gases are way more
dangerous than compressed liquids
nonetheless it would be nice not to have
this thing you know ruptured and sprayed
water and shrapnel all over my garage
and me okay so here's the business end
of the machine we've got our 3200 PSI
water coming in here I made this adapter
from buying a high pressure or pressure
washer hose coupler and I braised in a
stainless steel pipe into the coupler
these stainless steel pipes are actually
a standard interconnect style I'll put
links to all this stuff in the
description these are actually made for
very high pressure systems all the way
up to 150,000 psi
but this particular variant is rated for
60,000 psi which is of course much
higher than what we're doing right now
but I have some I have some other
experiments coming that will make use of
this it's a rather clever system the way
it works is you just thread the end of a
piece of stainless steel pipe and then
screw on this ferrule and then use a nut
to hold the ferrule into the fitting so
it's literally a metal-on-metal seal
there's no gasket or anything it's just
stainless to stainless conical seal and
it actually works really well they're
all precision parts and everything so
you don't even need that much torque to
seal it so in any case if you were gonna
build something like this at home you
know you don't need any of this fancy
stainless stuff I mean you could go
right from the high pressure hose right
into the cutting head but since I had
all this laying around already and I
wanted to see what the pressure was I
added this nice gauge and a tee in this
really high pressure valve
and then the cutting head is down here
so most most of the exciting stuff is
happening in the cutting head which
we'll look at next when people talk
about water jet cutting what they
usually mean is abrasive water jet
cutting so it's actually little sound
particles that are doing the cutting and
the water is actually incidental if
there was some other way to accelerate
these hard cutting particles up to you
know two times the speed of sound they
would do a great job cutting the
material all by themselves it's just
water is nice because it's not
compressible and you can pump it around
through a hose and so it makes it a
convenient way to just accelerate all
those abrasive particles so the cutting
heads job is to take the stream of dry
abrasive in this case it's 80 grit
garnet basically sand this side of the
cutting head is actually under suction
and so it actually pulls the abrasive in
there so I'm going to take this apart so
we can see how it is built as you can
see there's almost no torque needed to
put these high-pressure style fittings
together this isn't even an official
fitting this is just a stainless steel
bolt that I got from McMaster and made
it work so let's take this over to the
bench so we can get a better look okay
so here's a cutting head and also a
game addict image in the public domain
that shows what's inside here
now this particular cutting head has two
ports for the abrasive that's kind of an
interesting feature one of them is
actually suction just connected to
basically a vacuum pump and the other
one carries the abrasive into the
chamber so it has this feature where you
can get the abrasive flowing through
that space in the cutting head before
you turn the water on even and I guess
for some materials that's a benefit so
we'll take this apart this thing at the
bottom here is actually a tungsten
carbide tube with a very small hole in
it you can see all the way through there
this particular one is about 40,000
diameter and it's three inches long it's
kind of an expensive piece so this is
about $80.00 kind of funny that this is
80 bucks and the hole pressure washer
was 150 so I mean that's kind of how it
goes but keep in mind that tungsten
carbide is really brittle so don't drop
this okay I had a problem when I first
set this up I had a 30,000 and was
having a problem with clogging and I was
poking the wire through here to try to
unjam it and I think I was actually
almost ready to get this thing unjammed
and then I dropped it on the floor and
this is what happened so don't do that
the next interesting bit is the actual
orifice the actual thing that creates
this tiny jet of water and here it is
this one happens to be a ruby and the
ruby has an 18,000 it so you might be
thinking oh wow I mean every B with an
18,000 it's got to be expensive
no actually it's it's literally 12 bucks
I think the sapphires are $15 and the
rubies are 12 or something the rest of
this is just a chunk of stainless steel
as you can see I bought this obviously I
didn't machine this this is a commercial
one from a cue stream by the way I'll
put links to where those places where I
bought all this stuff the only thing is
it has to be quite precise and so the
way that this works all the tapers on
these orifices and this thing and the
mixing nozzle and everything are all
pretty well controlled so when I drop
this
or if it's in here you get it oriented
correctly it seats in there and seals
against the body here and also is it
doesn't jiggle anymore so there's a
taper that gets it nice and concentric
and then same with this this is actually
very precisely fit in here and there's a
ferrule that clamps down on it so that
everything is really concentric and I
don't know if you can see and you see if
I can lined up with the cameras you can
see all the way through there in most
commercial water jet machines the
orifice is typically about 10,000 inch
and the mixing tube diameter is about
30,000 inch and if you change the
orifice size it's good practice to have
the mixing tube diameter be about three
times that however since we're dealing
with a smaller lower powered pump I'm
sort of forced to use a larger orifice
in order to get the maximum power from
the pump so an interesting thing when I
first started this project I was
thinking oh yeah you know since it's a
small power or since it's smaller
pressure washer I could use the really
small orifice and so I started out with
like a fourth ow orifice and then
realized that that actually you know
that logic holds true if pressure is
no-limit right so with the same
horsepower going in you basically want
to have as much horsepower coming
through the jet which means high
pressure and low flow but since pressure
is limited I mean we blow the pump up if
we tried to get much higher than where
we are now
what we have to do is make the orifice
bigger so that we get more flow at a
lower pressure to get that same amount
of horsepower at the jet now the reason
that water jets have to run at such a
high pressure anyway is because the
energy in those particles is V squared
right 1/2 MV squared is the amount of
energy in those moving particles it's
the same reason that being behind a gun
is typically safer than being in front
of it right it's the same momentum the
shooter experience is the same Ament
emits the person who catches the bullet
but the person who catches the bullet is
going to experience much much higher
energy dissipated and it's the same deal
with water jet cutting right the
particles that are coming out of here
are basically like tiny
and you want them going really fast
because you make use of that V squared
term in the energy so anyway you'd be
nice to have super high pressures but
that's difficult because all the pump
seals have to be really nice and the
pump casing has to be thick so we can
sort of make up for it by just having a
higher overall flow and I selected 18
foul because that would allow this pump
to be drawing 20 amps at it's you know
desired flow rate running at 120 volts
and and that's we basically get as much
power as we can with that size orifice
and then they don't really make mixing
tubes that are three times bigger than
the 18 so I went with a 40,000 to so
we're kind of pushing the limits of
what's normal for a commercial machine
but it's still within the realm of of
you know acceptable the last thing to
look at is the abrasive hopper it's
basically just a tub with a hole in the
bottom you know it's funny I went
researching this and looking around all
the commercial abrasive hoppers and
everything I would swear up and down
that they had something more complicated
going on in here most of the commercial
units have like a dial where you can set
how you know the rate at which you want
the abrasive dispensed and a lot of them
have pneumatic controls to shut it on
and off and everything and I thought
there was at least a venturi that was
sort of blowing air through it and
picking up the particles and carrying it
down no none of that is true actually
it's literally just gravity-feed it's a
bucket with a hole in the bottom and a
valve that opens and shuts and then as I
mentioned the air is drawn into the
cutting head because of the venturi
action or even just the momentum of the
water going through the mixing tube kind
of draws a little bit air with it and in
all the commercial water jets as well
the hopper you'll see is always kind of
above the cutting head and the sand just
drips down through the tube now one
thing that happens a lot on commercial
systems and mine is if there's a backup
if you plug up the tube for whatever
reason water will start to go back up
here and into your abrasive hopper which
is very bad so I learned right away that
getting water in your sand is one of
worse things ever because it clumps up
and then it doesn't flow anymore so
protecting your sand from the water is a
big deal and some of them have anti flow
back valves in here even if they're just
the geometry is set up such that if
water comes shooting back up this tube
it doesn't go shooting all the way back
up into you're abrasive it kind of
misses it and goes off the side I had a
lot of fun researching this and putting
it all together since water jet machines
are always so mysterious and expensive
and you can't even buy parts for them I
called one dealer and they said they
only sell to existing customers let me
think about that statement for a second
but anyway the results are pretty
promising and the next steps if I were
to keep going with this would be to add
a CNC control so one thing we can do is
move the whole table underneath the jet
or take the more conventional approach
and move the jet itself if you're going
to cut things out of large sheets it
makes more sense to have that approach
kind of like a CNC router and luckily on
ebay and other sources there's really
low-cost CNC machines maybe they don't
have a really great control or even any
control at all but at least they have
the stepper motors and the drive screws
and everything and I'm sure the
precision would be good enough for a lot
of Hobby projects also I should mention
there is a Kickstarter startup waser
it's sort of like a tabletop water jet
cutter kind of like what I've shown here
today they have it completely enclosed
it's fully setup it includes everything
the control you know the pump and
everything they say it runs off of a
standard household outlet which I assume
is 120 volts at 15 or 20 amps so it's
probably comparable to the cutting
performance of what you saw today but of
course they've time the work of making
it reliable and you know everything is
put together instead of this you know
hose and funnel and stuff hanging around
I haven't tried the waser myself but it
does look pretty cool and I'm kind of on
the fence about thinking about getting
one okay well I hope you found that

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