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Wednesday, January 8, 2020

3D print your brain, timelapse, high-res microfluidics, custom colors...-----make money online

3D print your brain, timelapse, high-res microfluidics, custom colors...-----make money online

today on Applied Science I'm going to
show you how to print some cool stuff
with this new formlabs printer including

a copy of your own brain using some
open-source software that I found so
let's start off by taking a look at a
time-lapse of how this printer works
this time-lapse shows about an
eight-hour print and you can see how the
machine works it maintains a puddle of
photosensitive resin and then uses a
laser to cure little bits of that resin
into solid material and pulls the part
out of the bath of resin now of course
it doesn't happen all at once like it's
shown in the time-lapse in slightly
faster or slightly closer to real time
you can see what the Machine actually
does it actually picks the part up out
of the resin for each layer and then
puts it back in and makes the next layer
so because of this it's actually very
easy to make a synchronized time-lapse
let me show you how I did it when the
printer is running the lid should be
closed but I'm going to open it up just
so you can see this when the printer is
running this tray moves back and forth
as part of the normal print process and
conveniently that means that we can put
a little micro switch here and every
time the tray comes over to finish a
layer it bumps the micro switch and I
bought a really cheap remote shutter
release for my camera from Amazon and
then just hardwired the micro switch up
to the switch contacts so it's basically
like every time that micro switch closes
it's just as if you were holding your
button your finger down on the shutter
release button and the reason this works
out well is because the camera has a
bulb shutter release setting so every
time the tray is over here the Machine
is printing and then when that layer is
done the tray moves away and comes back
so it's like you're releasing your
finger from the button and then putting
it back down so the shutter is open the
whole time that it's printing
conveniently this camera is a Panasonic
g85 and it will make a time-lapse
automatically in the camera so all I
have to do is set up the photo settings
like the size and how many frames per
second I want and then I actually get an
mp4 file right out of the camera the
wide range of parts that can be made on
this machine and a
especially the detail level of those
parts is really impressive let me show
you what I mean so at work for rapid
prototyping we have to have lots of
small detailed parts made on a regular
basis and until recently we've used an
external service to have these parts
made on industrial SLA machines it
probably cost hundreds of thousands of
dollars so can you tell which is which
in this photo one of these came from the
industrial half-million-dollar machine
or whatever and the other one came from
the forum - and we've done careful
measurements and everything and the
parts from the forum - are as good or
even better than the very expensive
external service parts let me give you
another example another thing that we
have to do at work is make little
microfluidic devices and what's cool is
we can print the passageways into the
part directly with the 3d printer so I
didn't drill these holes these were
printed in the part by the 3d printer of
course and it comes off the machine with
sort of a frosted finish and all I did
was lightly sanded on a piece of glass
with 600 grit then a thousand grit and
finished it up with a flap wheel with
some white Rouge and it makes an
optically clear component with five or
six hundred micron holes in it so if you
keep the hole in plane like if you don't
change direction you can print down to
about 500 micron passageways and if you
do change direction this one has like a
ninety degree Bend printed into it the
smallest channel size can get down to
about six or seven hundred micron maybe
800 in any case pretty remarkable you
can also have cork screws I mean the
things that you can print are very very
unlike the things that you could machine
are cast in any other way right so this
kind of opens the door for doing all
sorts of unusual microfluidic type
things pretty unreal that this is 3d
printed I mean if someone showed this to
me
10 years ago and said this is a 3d
printed part that came from a desktop
machine I definitely would not have
believed it if you're into 3d printing
you've probably downloaded things from
Thingiverse before but there's actually
another source of parts that's really
useful and
mcmaster-carr so you've probably noticed
that they have 3d models for a lot of
the parts on their site and a really
convenient thing to do especially for
pipe fittings I've found this is
actually really great for pipe fittings
download the step file import it into
fusion 360 and then save the STL and
fusion 360 will even import the like it
sends the STL directly to the formlabs
printer software automatically so the
whole process takes about two minutes
it's download convert right into the
printer software and then you can print
it out and the resolution is good enough
where you can print quarter-inch pipe
threads like this that thread together
just fine and if you put pipe sealant on
here and really clamp this thing down
you actually have a workable pipe
fitting formlabs has about 10 or 20
different materials that you can print
within this printer and one of the
materials is like a polypropylene
simulant so it's it has much higher
fracture toughness than typical clear
resins and quarter-inch pipe threads can
be printed and used directly and I
actually have one of these in my
sprinkler system right now holding back
you know 50 psi water pressure or
whatever so it's actually surprisingly
functional I really didn't think the
state of the art was this far along now
it does have its limits of course you
can't print an eighth inch pipe thread
is really pushing it if you put enough
pipe sealant on here and your pressures
aren't very high it will hold together
but that's pretty much getting up near
the limit nonetheless it it does give
you the possibility if you need some
kind of a weird fitting that has you
know quarter inch pipe on this side 3/8
pipe on this side and a hose barb over
here you can just download all those
parts from McMaster and merge them
together in fusion 360 and then print
the whole mess out I really like the
ability to print in sort of negative
space so for example this is a Tesla
one-way valve don't you've seen these
before I downloaded this one off of grab
CAD and the idea is that if you're
flowing a fluid this way the flow keeps
getting redirected into these side
channels and blown back at itself so
it's supposed to act like a one way
valve although this one doesn't
super well anyway you get a large flow
resistance in this direction and almost
no flow resistance or much less flow
resistance in this direction and again I
took all the parts from gap your grab
cat and just summed them together in
fusion 360 and printed the whole mess
out in one go and then just quickly
polish the surfaces up really a cool
technique I also like printing in
negative space for our sculpture stuff
so this is like a model of a few
windmills outside my office building and
there's really no way you could get this
since it's completely encased within
solid material I really like this
technique let's talk about the brain for
a sec so of course if you want to print
out a model of your own brain you'll
need some imaging data and pretty much
MRI is the way to go I used to work in
the brain imaging research field so I
happen to have quite a few scans of my
brain laying around and the starting
resolution is about 256 square by a
hundred and 24 it's kind of a standard
anatomical scan as they call it if your
brain and I searched around on the net
and found a really clear set of
instructions for how to use existing
software to make this work and so I'll
put this all in the link description or
in the video description of course let's
talk about the mechanics of how this
thing actually prints so you do need
support structures if you want to print
an object that has these huge overhangs
so even though the printer is gonna pull
this thing out of a bath of resin
you still need to support a thing like
this because it has such a high overhang
like the material itself just can't
suddenly appear out here it needs to be
supported and so the software
automatically adds all the supports
you'll need and that's fine and they
typically just break away it leaves
these little little blemish marks here
that aren't too big of a deal however if
you are you get more confident with how
the system works you can directly on the
platter of the machine and not use
supports so this object didn't really
need supports I printed this so that
this was flat on the base of the machine
and it pulled it out of the resin tank
and there isn't a single support
here so if thankfully the software
allows you to do things that are not
recommended and you can kind of decide
for yourself what the sort of risk
return ratio is however there's another
interesting gotcha you'll see that
there's a little hole here and I put
this here intentionally I actually cut
the STL file and made a hole here and
the reason is that if this is being
printed in this orientation this whole
area or this volume and here is air
locked and the way that the printer
works is it pulls this thing in and out
of the bath of resin and every time it
comes back down into the resin Bilby air
pressure trapped in here that's trying
to like blow the resin out of the bottom
and this can create some print quality
problems so if you want to print any
sort of a structure that has a sealed
cup shape you have to either vent it or
orient the cup in a way that the air can
get out there's also the ability to mix
up custom colored resins and so the form
lab supplies a kit with CMYK and you can
add the pigment to the resin to produce
anything you want and so I thought it
might be fun to do sort of like a wood
marquetry type thing with inlay so I
printed out the orange resin part and
then printed out these white parts and
just press them together and I it's just
zero clearance and I just shoved the
parts together and it's it's actually
pretty darn close on the first try and
see a couple of small problems here and
there but overall really nice in any
case after the printer is done the item
is covered in uncured resin right
because it's pulling it out of this
puddle of stuff so it's completely
coated in uncured resin
luckily getting it off is pretty easy
you can just dunk the part in isopropyl
alcohol and formlabs even makes a
specialized washer that you can put your
parts into and it swirls the isopropanol
around and then after that for some
resins like this clear resin you can be
done like that's it as soon as it's air
dry the parts fine I can touch it it has
a nice surface quality but you can also
post cure these by putting them into a
high temperature environment with 405
nanometer light and that will harden the
resin and give it slightly better
mechanical properties and form laws even
makes a specialized little oven with 405
nanometer LEDs in there looks pretty
cool because
the items fluoresce this is kind of an
interesting point right like if your if
you were designing a 3d printer system
like this and you're shooting your laser
light in here you don't want the laser
light to go all the way through the
material even though this looks clear
it's actually not clear to the type of
light that causes it to transform from a
liquid to a solid if you were gonna make
a coil like this it wouldn't work
because your laser beam would basically
go all the way through the part and then
cure all the coils you know it basically
make a solid vine so these this resin is
designed to stop 405 nanometer light and
fluoresce it you know probably 450
nanometers or something it's like kind
of like a light blue color so when it's
in the curing tank you can see it
fluorescing as a beast basically being
opaque to its cure wavelength kind of a
cool quirk next I downloaded this vortex
tube from grab CAD and printed it at
half scale it doesn't work that well but
you can kind of see it on the thermal
cam here to get an idea I mean at least
it's doing something if you haven't seen
these before it's this really cool thing
totally passive device no moving parts
and you blow compressed air into here
and it gets hot on one end and cold on
the other it seems like it's doing
something that shouldn't be allowed by
physics but if you think about it it's
actually making use of the kinetic
energy so it basically spins the air up
to a high speed and then when it slows
that air down on the hot end all that
kinetic energy goes into heating the gas
up and then it allows the stream to keep
moving the other direction where it
cools down because it's being
decompressed right like it's fast-moving
and then it's compressed and then as its
decompressing it cools down again so
you're basically using some of the
kinetic energy that's in the air stream
to do this heat movement like I say it
does work but it could use some tuning
there I was kind of thinking one of the
cool things we can do since the printer
is so good at printing like tiny
passageways is to make the smallest
possible vortex tube' right something
that you could power off of compressed
air and a can one of those canned air
dusters so I think that's going to be in
the works pretty soon oh I should
mention that the reason that this resin
is sort of orange tinted is
because it's a special high-temperature
resin formlabs says this is good for
like two or three hundred degrees C and
I was hoping that this vortex tube would
get hot enough to kind of you know push
the limits at least a little bit but
alas not quiet so we'll see if I can
improve the design to show off how
temperature resistant this material is
they even have a picture of a blowtorch
nozzle made of this material 3d printed
that is pretty cool
I printed this turbine fan in a material
that formlabs calls rigid it has their
highest modulus and also their lowest
fracture toughness but it's it's still
reasonable you can actually still push
the blades a little bit it doesn't crack
apart but they have a new material
coming out that's just now released a
true ceramic material you can print a
green ceramic right out of the printer
and then fire it in a kiln and get a
true ceramic part for really high
temperature applications
and what I want to do is mix that
ceramic resin with some other unusual
ceramic type things like for example
ybco superconductor and then fire it in
a kiln fuse it and anneal it and then I
could have like a 3d printed
superconducting structure and that
actually sounds pretty revolutionary to
me so that'll be coming up at some point
in the future along with some other
unusual applications for 3d printing I'm
kind of late to this whole 3d printing
game but I admit that it's pretty cool
now especially with a printer like this
okay see you next time bye
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