today
on Applied Science I'm going to
show you how to print
some cool stuff
with this new formlabs
printer including
a copy of your own brain
using some
open-source software
that I found so
let's start off by
taking a look at a
time-lapse of how this
printer works
this time-lapse shows
about an
eight-hour print and you
can see how the
machine works it
maintains a puddle of
photosensitive resin and
then uses a
laser to cure little
bits of that resin
into solid material and
pulls the part
out of the bath of resin
now of course
it doesn't happen all at
once like it's
shown in the time-lapse
in slightly
faster or slightly
closer to real time
you can see what the
Machine actually
does it actually picks
the part up out
of the resin for each
layer and then
puts it back in and
makes the next layer
so because of this it's
actually very
easy to make a
synchronized time-lapse
let me show you how I
did it when the
printer is running the
lid should be
closed but I'm going to
open it up just
so you can see this when
the printer is
running this tray moves
back and forth
as part of the normal
print process and
conveniently that means
that we can put
a little micro switch
here and every
time the tray comes over
to finish a
layer it bumps the micro
switch and I
bought a really cheap
remote shutter
release for my camera
from Amazon and
then just hardwired the
micro switch up
to the switch contacts
so it's basically
like every time that
micro switch closes
it's just as if you were
holding your
button your finger down
on the shutter
release button and the
reason this works
out well is because the
camera has a
bulb shutter release
setting so every
time the tray is over
here the Machine
is printing and then
when that layer is
done the tray moves away
and comes back
so it's like you're
releasing your
finger from the button
and then putting
it back down so the
shutter is open the
whole time that it's
printing
conveniently this camera
is a Panasonic
g85 and it will make a
time-lapse
automatically in the
camera so all I
have to do is set up the
photo settings
like the size and how
many frames per
second I want and then I
actually get an
mp4 file right out of
the camera the
wide range of parts that
can be made on
this machine and a
especially the detail
level of those
parts is really
impressive let me show
you what I mean so at
work for rapid
prototyping we have to
have lots of
small detailed parts
made on a regular
basis and until recently
we've used an
external service to have
these parts
made on industrial SLA
machines it
probably cost hundreds
of thousands of
dollars so can you tell which
is which
in this photo one of
these came from the
industrial
half-million-dollar machine
or whatever and the
other one came from
the forum - and we've
done careful
measurements and
everything and the
parts from the forum -
are as good or
even better than the
very expensive
external service parts
let me give you
another example another
thing that we
have to do at work is
make little
microfluidic devices and
what's cool is
we can print the
passageways into the
part directly with the
3d printer so I
didn't drill these holes
these were
printed in the part by
the 3d printer of
course and it comes off
the machine with
sort of a frosted finish
and all I did
was lightly sanded on a
piece of glass
with 600 grit then a
thousand grit and
finished it up with a
flap wheel with
some white Rouge and it
makes an
optically clear
component with five or
six hundred micron holes
in it so if you
keep the hole in plane
like if you don't
change direction you can
print down to
about 500 micron
passageways and if you
do change direction this
one has like a
ninety degree Bend
printed into it the
smallest channel size
can get down to
about six or seven
hundred micron maybe
800 in any case pretty
remarkable you
can also have cork
screws I mean the
things that you can
print are very very
unlike the things that
you could machine
are cast in any other
way right so this
kind of opens the door
for doing all
sorts of unusual
microfluidic type
things pretty unreal
that this is 3d
printed I mean if
someone showed this to
me
10 years ago and said
this is a 3d
printed part that came
from a desktop
machine I definitely
would not have
believed it if you're
into 3d printing
you've probably
downloaded things from
Thingiverse before but
there's actually
another source of parts
that's really
useful and
mcmaster-carr so you've
probably noticed
that they have 3d models
for a lot of
the parts on their site
and a really
convenient thing to do
especially for
pipe fittings I've found
this is
actually really great
for pipe fittings
download the step file
import it into
fusion 360 and then save
the STL and
fusion 360 will even
import the like it
sends the STL directly
to the formlabs
printer software
automatically so the
whole process takes
about two minutes
it's download convert
right into the
printer software and
then you can print
it out and the
resolution is good enough
where you can print
quarter-inch pipe
threads like this that
thread together
just fine and if you put
pipe sealant on
here and really clamp
this thing down
you actually have a
workable pipe
fitting formlabs has
about 10 or 20
different materials that
you can print
within this printer and
one of the
materials is like a
polypropylene
simulant so it's it has
much higher
fracture toughness than
typical clear
resins and quarter-inch
pipe threads can
be printed and used
directly and I
actually have one of
these in my
sprinkler system right
now holding back
you know 50 psi water
pressure or
whatever so it's
actually surprisingly
functional I really
didn't think the
state of the art was
this far along now
it does have its limits
of course you
can't print an eighth
inch pipe thread
is really pushing it if
you put enough
pipe sealant on here and
your pressures
aren't very high it will
hold together
but that's pretty much
getting up near
the limit nonetheless it
it does give
you the possibility if
you need some
kind of a weird fitting
that has you
know quarter inch pipe
on this side 3/8
pipe on this side and a
hose barb over
here you can just
download all those
parts from McMaster and
merge them
together in fusion 360
and then print
the whole mess out I
really like the
ability to print in sort
of negative
space so for example
this is a Tesla
one-way valve don't
you've seen these
before I downloaded this
one off of grab
CAD and the idea is that
if you're
flowing a fluid this way
the flow keeps
getting redirected into
these side
channels and blown back
at itself so
it's supposed to act
like a one way
valve although this one
doesn't
super well anyway you
get a large flow
resistance in this
direction and almost
no flow resistance or
much less flow
resistance in this
direction and again I
took all the parts from
gap your grab
cat and just summed them
together in
fusion 360 and printed
the whole mess
out in one go and then
just quickly
polish the surfaces up
really a cool
technique I also like
printing in
negative space for our
sculpture stuff
so this is like a model
of a few
windmills outside my
office building and
there's really no way
you could get this
since it's completely
encased within
solid material I really
like this
technique let's talk
about the brain for
a sec so of course if
you want to print
out a model of your own
brain you'll
need some imaging data
and pretty much
MRI is the way to go I
used to work in
the brain imaging
research field so I
happen to have quite a
few scans of my
brain laying around and
the starting
resolution is about 256
square by a
hundred and 24 it's kind
of a standard
anatomical scan as they
call it if your
brain and I searched
around on the net
and found a really clear
set of
instructions for how to
use existing
software to make this
work and so I'll
put this all in the link
description or
in the video description
of course let's
talk about the mechanics
of how this
thing actually prints so
you do need
support structures if
you want to print
an object that has these
huge overhangs
so even though the
printer is gonna pull
this thing out of a bath
of resin
you still need to
support a thing like
this because it has such
a high overhang
like the material itself
just can't
suddenly appear out here
it needs to be
supported and so the
software
automatically adds all
the supports
you'll need and that's
fine and they
typically just break
away it leaves
these little little
blemish marks here
that aren't too big of a
deal however if
you are you get more
confident with how
the system works you can
directly on the
platter of the machine
and not use
supports so this object
didn't really
need supports I printed
this so that
this was flat on the
base of the machine
and it pulled it out of
the resin tank
and there isn't a single
support
here so if thankfully
the software
allows you to do things
that are not
recommended and you can
kind of decide
for yourself what the
sort of risk
return ratio is however
there's another
interesting gotcha
you'll see that
there's a little hole
here and I put
this here intentionally
I actually cut
the STL file and made a
hole here and
the reason is that if
this is being
printed in this
orientation this whole
area or this volume and
here is air
locked and the way that
the printer
works is it pulls this
thing in and out
of the bath of resin and
every time it
comes back down into the
resin Bilby air
pressure trapped in here
that's trying
to like blow the resin
out of the bottom
and this can create some
print quality
problems so if you want
to print any
sort of a structure that
has a sealed
cup shape you have to
either vent it or
orient the cup in a way
that the air can
get out there's also the
ability to mix
up custom colored resins
and so the form
lab supplies a kit with
CMYK and you can
add the pigment to the
resin to produce
anything you want and so
I thought it
might be fun to do sort
of like a wood
marquetry type thing
with inlay so I
printed out the orange
resin part and
then printed out these
white parts and
just press them together
and I it's just
zero clearance and I
just shoved the
parts together and it's
it's actually
pretty darn close on the
first try and
see a couple of small
problems here and
there but overall really
nice in any
case after the printer
is done the item
is covered in uncured
resin right
because it's pulling it
out of this
puddle of stuff so it's
completely
coated in uncured resin
luckily getting it off
is pretty easy
you can just dunk the
part in isopropyl
alcohol and formlabs
even makes a
specialized washer that
you can put your
parts into and it swirls
the isopropanol
around and then after
that for some
resins like this clear
resin you can be
done like that's it as
soon as it's air
dry the parts fine I can
touch it it has
a nice surface quality
but you can also
post cure these by
putting them into a
high temperature
environment with 405
nanometer light and that
will harden the
resin and give it
slightly better
mechanical properties
and form laws even
makes a specialized
little oven with 405
nanometer LEDs in there
looks pretty
cool because
the items fluoresce this
is kind of an
interesting point right
like if your if
you were designing a 3d
printer system
like this and you're
shooting your laser
light in here you don't
want the laser
light to go all the way
through the
material even though
this looks clear
it's actually not clear
to the type of
light that causes it to
transform from a
liquid to a solid if you
were gonna make
a coil like this it
wouldn't work
because your laser beam
would basically
go all the way through
the part and then
cure all the coils you
know it basically
make a solid vine so
these this resin is
designed to stop 405
nanometer light and
fluoresce it you know
probably 450
nanometers or something
it's like kind
of like a light blue color
so when it's
in the curing tank you
can see it
fluorescing as a beast
basically being
opaque to its cure
wavelength kind of a
cool quirk next I
downloaded this vortex
tube from grab CAD and
printed it at
half scale it doesn't
work that well but
you can kind of see it
on the thermal
cam here to get an idea
I mean at least
it's doing something if
you haven't seen
these before it's this
really cool thing
totally passive device
no moving parts
and you blow compressed
air into here
and it gets hot on one
end and cold on
the other it seems like
it's doing
something that shouldn't
be allowed by
physics but if you think
about it it's
actually making use of
the kinetic
energy so it basically
spins the air up
to a high speed and then
when it slows
that air down on the hot
end all that
kinetic energy goes into
heating the gas
up and then it allows
the stream to keep
moving the other
direction where it
cools down because it's
being
decompressed right like
it's fast-moving
and then it's compressed
and then as its
decompressing it cools
down again so
you're basically using
some of the
kinetic energy that's in
the air stream
to do this heat movement
like I say it
does work but it could
use some tuning
there I was kind of
thinking one of the
cool things we can do
since the printer
is so good at printing
like tiny
passageways is to make
the smallest
possible vortex tube'
right something
that you could power off
of compressed
air and a can one of
those canned air
dusters so I think
that's going to be in
the works pretty soon oh
I should
mention that the reason
that this resin
is sort of orange tinted
is
because it's a special
high-temperature
resin formlabs says this
is good for
like two or three
hundred degrees C and
I was hoping that this
vortex tube would
get hot enough to kind
of you know push
the limits at least a
little bit but
alas not quiet so we'll
see if I can
improve the design to
show off how
temperature resistant
this material is
they even have a picture
of a blowtorch
nozzle made of this
material 3d printed
that is pretty cool
I printed this turbine
fan in a material
that formlabs calls
rigid it has their
highest modulus and also
their lowest
fracture toughness but
it's it's still
reasonable you can
actually still push
the blades a little bit
it doesn't crack
apart but they have a
new material
coming out that's just
now released a
true ceramic material
you can print a
green ceramic right out
of the printer
and then fire it in a
kiln and get a
true ceramic part for
really high
temperature applications
and what I want to do is
mix that
ceramic resin with some
other unusual
ceramic type things like
for example
ybco superconductor and
then fire it in
a kiln fuse it and
anneal it and then I
could have like a 3d
printed
superconducting
structure and that
actually sounds pretty
revolutionary to
me so that'll be coming
up at some point
in the future along with
some other
unusual applications for
3d printing I'm
kind of late to this
whole 3d printing
game but I admit that
it's pretty cool
now especially with a
printer like this
okay see you next time
bye
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