Handheld CNC router repairs old CNC machine-----make money online

today on Applied Science I'm going to

talk about using brand-new CNC

technology to repair and upgrade old CNC

technology so I've got this 1982

Bridgeport CNC milling machine and I've

been using it for about a decade and to

its credit it's been working pretty much

fine the whole time at 4800 baud being

run from a DOS program on my laptop and

it even though it's still working it's

quite slow and I can't really do 3d

contouring with it because it just can't

process enough g-code commands and also

it's had a couple of small problems and

I'm worried it's going to die soon this

is the original 1982 circuit board here

anyway the motors are in great shape so

I'm going to keep those and the upgrade

kit that I bought will work just fine

with them but it needs to be the

encoders that actually tell the machine

or tell the control where the axes are

need to be upgraded so let's take a

closer look at one of the drive motors

and I'll explain what we're doing today

this machine uses three identical DC

servo motors and so we have to be

looking at the x-axis here and most of

the magnets in this motor are actually

in this region here this smaller magnet

is a tachometer output so besides the

plus and minus for the motor it also has

plus and minus DC output voltage for

tachometer however modern controls don't

use that and so what we're going to do

is make an adapter so that I can put a

modern high resolution encoder on the

back of this motor here so originally

the original system actually used both

so it had not only the tachometer output

but it also had this fairly large setup

like this and inside this metal can

there was a fairly low-resolution shaft

encoders about 200 counts per revolution

i'll be--i'll tear one of these down

actually because it is fairly

interesting how it was built but anyway

the modern shaft encoder is only this

big and it's 2,000 lines per count in it

of course goes much faster in his solid

state and everything about it is pretty

much better so what we have to do is

make an adapter to put this back on and

then mount the new shaft encoder on

there

and then I think what I'll do is just

gut this metal can and put it back on

there and then reuse the connector here

which is a really strong robust oil

resistant connector and I'll just saw

our new wires onto it but use the

existing strain relief so I thought

about this for a while trying to figure

out the easiest way to mount this tiny

little shaft encoder onto here and also

have it be protected by the original

metal and what I came up with was to use

this piece and put a flat piece of metal

that will sit down inside this flanged

area so then I put it on here there will

be a flat plate that I can mount this

other shaft encoder on to and then I'll

be able to build up that whole metal box

that you saw before so the trick is I

need a round metal plate that will fit

down into this flange maybe even be

attached by these four screws and then

also have a spot for the shaft to come

through and some mounting holes for this

but unfortunately my CNC machine is down

so I can't use it to make the plate so

let's head over to the bench and I'll

show you what I'm going to use this is a

handheld CNC router made by a company

called shaper it's currently in beta

testing and it is really cool let me

just show you what it does I have it

configured to not plunge the tool into

the into the work it's just going to

hover above just to show you what it

does so I'm going to start a cutting and

I'm looking at the screen here and it's

telling me where to drive however if my

hands shake around a little bit you can

see what the thing does it uses its

motors to compensate for my hand

movement so if you want to cut a

straight line you know it'll tell you to

drive along in a straight line as best

you can but if you can't do it or if

you're struggling to keep up the machine

will use its motors to help you out so

I'm following the directions on the

screen here and I'm tracing out a circle

and again if my hands shake a little bit

like this you can see how it's

compensating

here's a view of the screen so you can

see what the operator sees in that

little demo I just showed you so I'm

going to position the machine over the

start of the cut and I'm going to press

the green button here and if this were

actually doing a real cut it would have

plunged the tool down into the work and

so it's giving a cue here to go in this

direction so if we start driving you can

see that the machine is showing where

the cutter is going and if we move

around like this like handshake you can

see that the in here it probably that

the machine is moving around that cutter

so let's say we want to stop here and

start again we can just press the red

button and it'll lift the cutter out of

the work and we can go back and maybe

start somewhere else or cut something

else see I'm going to zoom out and so

you can see the whole workspace here so

let's start from the beginning I'll show

you how I made this part starting with

CAD and then going all the way through

to the cut part one of the really

interesting features about this tool is

that you don't have to use a computer in

order to start cutting so for example if

you just want a plain circle and you

know what diameter you want you can save

place and then shapes and then just tell

it you want a circle and what you do is

you actually use the the position of the

machine itself as a mouse so if I click

it just put a center point there and

then if I swing out I can change the

size of that circle so keep in mind this

is a beta machine and they're adding

lots and lots of features so that you

can do better entry here but I really

like the idea that you can just choose

to make any size circle you want and you

can even see it's reading off the

diameter here so you can kind of very

very carefully dial it in and then click

again and it will leave that circle

there and then you can cut that out so

pretty cool I mean just that alone

anyone who has like a set of hole saws

for cutting holes in wood or just going

to like this because you can have any

size hole you want but anyway for

today's project I did the layout in

SolidWorks because I'm so familiar with

it and then saved that as a DXF and

imported into

Inkscape

and then added some colors the colors

tell the shaper cutter the CNC router

which holes should be cut on the inside

and what holes should be cut on the

outside so since I'm going to be cutting

out this little plate from a sheet of

aluminum I want to cut the holes out on

the inside and then cut the whole round

circle out on the outside and that's

what the colors mean and then I just

saved it as an SVG file on a thumb drive

and plug the thumb drive into the router

let's talk about the workspace set up

the machine uses this special optical

tape to figure out its location in space

and since we're going to be cutting

through all the way through this

sixteenth inch aluminum sheet I don't

want to cut into my workbench so I put

down some particle board and there's no

specific position for this tape I just

randomly put four strips across and the

idea is that I'm going to position the

aluminum plate here and then when the

machine is here and I'm driving along

the machines camera is kind of facing

out in this direction so it can see all

those markers and as long as this is

very securely taped down to the spoil

board it won't move relative to this and

then the machines cutter won't move

relative to the markers because it's

using a camera to see that and

everything will be fine for larger

projects what you can do is put this

optical tape right on your stock like

let's say you're cutting through plywood

and then just drive along with the

machine like that and you can cut right

through the tape as long as you as long

as the machine can see enough markers

it's okay so I'm going to use Nitto p95

double stick tape and put some on this

surface of the aluminum and then flip it

and stick it down to the spoil board

okay we've got the plate mounted here

and just as a reference this is a

plastic part that I made earlier just to

make sure everything was going to work

out and you can see that the four

intervals for mounting the the small

encoder are going to be threaded and so

I don't have a drill I don't have the

right drill to mount into this what I'm

going to do is just pop drill them and

then drill and tap them later even just

having the spot drills these have to be

fairly precisely positioned because that

little encoder

have a lot of slop in there so even just

getting spot fuels in the right spots a

big help so what I'm going to do is take

the router out of the machine and load

in this little spot drill here the next

thing to do is to use the machines

camera to scan the entire space so that

it knows what markers are available and

also where the stock is now that we've

got it a double stick tape down to the

spoil board so I'm going to press the

scan feature and then I'm actually going

to pick the router up off the table and

turn it around a bit and you can see

that the markers are turning green which

is good that means that it's identified

them and then also I can see the edge of

the stock so the cameras it has a very

wide angle view and you can see that you

can see the edge of the stock there with

all the markers in view so I'm going to

press the green button to have it store

that scene so it's stored the location

of all the markers and then I can tap to

change the zoom level so this is zoomed

way in and you can see that we're

looking at reflection in the stock there

and if I tap we've zoomed out a little

bit and you can see here's the edge of

the stock and if I tap again you can see

a much wider field of view so the way

this works is that with the stock empty

like this what we're going to do is use

the place feature and drop a shape down

on to the stock so for example we'll go

to the USB Drive and then encoder plate

is the thing that I just created in

SolidWorks and Inkscape so we'll select

that and then I'm going to zoom out and

now as we move the Machine around you

can see that we're moving this outline

of the part here's a clearer view of the

screen so you can see as we move this

thing around it's actually moving the

parts placement on the stock and when we

get this where we want it I don't want

to waste too much stock so I think I'll

probably put one kind of right about

there hit the green button and it

automatically zooms in and is ready to

start cutting

as you can see but before we get started

I'm going to place two more of these on

the stock so instead of start cutting

I'm going to go back to place and then

the USB Drive and place another one of

these so now you can see we've got two

of them and I'll put one next to I think

I'll zoom out again just so I can see it

I'll have another one over here and I'm

not ready to start cutting I'm going to

place another one so conveniently this

piece of stock has room to do three of

these across the top okay so now we're

going to set the Machine up to use that

spot drill that I loaded in so the holes

that we're going to spot drill are about

Oh a t three inches in diameter so I'm

going to enter a eighty three so the

machine thinks it has a tool of that

diameter and it will be able to plunge

through that hole and another cool

feature of this machine is that it will

automatically detect how long the tools

are so I'm going to press touch off and

what it's doing is it's actually driving

down into the work without the router

spinning and as soon as it senses that

it hits something it's very very gentle

then it knows that's how long the tool

is so it's automatically calculated the

tool off-site offset relative to the

part surface and then will tell it the

cut depth is going to be pretty small

just about 20,000 of these holes it

knows or it thinks the tool diameter is

small enough to go down into that hole

so it's going to do a cut and you can

see start cutting just lit up there so

let's do one so what I'm going to do is

start the router up and you probably

won't be able to hear me and all I'm

going to do is press the green button

it's going to plunge down and make that

spot drill and then I'm going to press

the red button and it's going to come

back up let's see what we get

okay so there's the nicely laid out spot

drills now I'm going to switch over to

an eighth inch end mill and then we can

cut out the other drill holes the inner

hole and then the outer dimension okay

now that I've loaded the eighth inch end

mill I'm going to tell the machine that

we're using an eighth inch diameter

cutter and then it's going to do the

touch off routine again so it just drove

the head of the cutter down into the

work without it spinning of course and

then we're going to change the cut depth

to about eighty thousand thick or about

60 mm then eighty means we'll have you

know 20,000 or so the zoom out again and

I think what I'm going to do next is cut

these holes first so this is actually

larger than an eighth of an inch so what

I'm going to do is start the router up

press the green button and then instead

of driving around what I'm going to do

is hold down the green button for auto

mode and since this tool path fits

entirely within the machine's envelope

it can actually helix down in there and

make a really nice hole so all I'm going

to do is hold the machine still and let

it helix down in there and clean that

hole out let's do that

okay there we got those four outer holes

in so these these outer holes are what

hold the thing to the machine and the

intervals are what hold the encoder so

next we'll do the center hole and then

right after that for each one we can

just do the outside and cut them all out

okay so we got three done well almost

done parts we'll take the those spot

drills and drill those out next but as

you can see pretty good I should point

out that this tool is designed for

woodworking and the folks at Schaefer

have been very nice in allowing and even

encouraging me to try things that are

sort of outside its intended use so

cutting 16-inch thick aluminum plate

seems to be fully within its capability

I was using an eighth inch carbide end

mill and the one problem that I was

having is that when the end mill would

plunge it would have sort of a cap of

aluminum stuck on there so I was using

some wd-40 to try to prevent the

aluminum chip from sticking to the

cutter but it was still a problem but

anyway that's kind of more of a cutter

problem not a shaper problem anyway in

future videos I will be talking about

this thing a bit more and even using it

for woodworking okay see you next time

bye

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