How to choose a cleaning solution-----make money online

in today's video I'd like to talk about

cleaning things so there's a huge

selection of solvents available but how

do you actually choose one so today I'd

like to give away some tips and tricks

and also explain some of the science

behind these cleaners first of all don't

forget that water itself is actually a

really great cleaning solvent and for

some types of dirt it's actually the

best possible solvent and so to show

this I've got a microscope slide with

some salt that I've dried on it just

plain old sodium chloride and I'm going

to start off by drizzling some anhydrous

alcohol on this so if you buy this from

an electronics store you can see it's

99% anhydrous alcohol meaning that

there's very little water in this it's

almost entirely pure isopropyl alcohol

and so I've got some in a wash bottle

here and we're just gonna spray this

over the salt and see what happens

as you can see not very much and the

reason is that the alcohol is not

particularly polar and it doesn't

dissolve the salt particularly well so

let's try this again with just plain old

distilled water this time the water was

very effective in dissolving the salt

and as the water was sprayed across the

slide it carries away the dissolved salt

and effectively cleans the surface and

so this holds true for other substances

as well this slide has some dried on

sugar which doesn't crystallize quite

like the salt does but we'll try the

same thing by putting isopropyl alcohol

and their anhydrous it kind of makes the

the sugar harder to see but trust me

it's still there unaffected let's try

the same thing with just distilled water

so the first rule for choosing a

cleaning solvent is like dissolves like

and so the thing that you want to

dissolve is polar like salt or sugar

then you want to use a polar solvent

like water to dissolve them and using

something that's not correct like

isopropyl alcohol actually won't have

much effect at all it won't help your

cleaning job in the slightest and it's

partially for this reason that most of

the alcohol sold at supermarkets and

drug stores is actually 70% the

additional 30 percent of water in there

is actually what allows you to clean

away a lot of the dirt so if you're

gonna clean like dried on blood or grass

stain or something like that the 70%

isopropanol is actually more effective

because it has the water already in

there the reason that you might want

anhydrous alcohol is if your the thing

you're cleaning is sensitive to water

like an electronic circuit then you'll

want this just to avoid using the water

altogether so how do you know if the

thing you want to clean is polar or not

well as it turns out most of the dirt

that we actually have trouble cleaning

in the world turns out to be nonpolar if

it were polar then we could just use

plain old water and be done with it but

the entire cleaning industry is pretty

much dedicated to cleaning difficult

nonpolar substances so for example I

have this permanent pen mark on the

microscope slide and if we just try to

clean it with plain old water of course

it's if nothing happens and it's

permanent pens not supposed to come off

in water so we'll sort of turn our

efforts up a little bit here and we'll

go to the isopropanol and see how this

does

it's starting to dissolve it as you can

see it's removed some of the pens so

some of the chemical compounds in the

permanent pen mark have dissolved in the

alcohol but it hasn't really cleaned the

slide it hasn't gotten everything so if

we up our efforts again and switch over

to acetone acetone is a partially

non-polar and partially polar solvent

now let's see how well this does the

acetone has no trouble at all just

completely removing the permanent pen

mark so let's talk a little bit more

about how to choose the solvents and the

differences between them there are a few

numerical scales that have been

developed to describe how effective a

solvent is at doing its job and so I'll

put links in the description one of them

is the khari butanol and another one is

the Hildebrand and they aren't used all

that commonly because each cleaning job

is so unique it's kind of hard to use a

single number to describe how good a

solvent is so for example if you're

cleaning wax off of a circuit board you

might choose one solvent that has a

lower you know KB number than another

one but it's really well suited to that

task for a number of other reasons so

I'm not going to go into detail about

the exact you know ratings for each of

these but just keep in mind that some

solvents are quite a bit more effective

at than others for a specific job so as

we saw with the marker isopropanol only

sort of half removed the marker whereas

acetone you know had no trouble with it

at all and going up from acetone the

solvents get quite a bit more effective

until we're into chlorinated

hydrocarbons like this that you

typically can't buy at the hardware

store because they're just a little too

good keep in mind that no matter how

good the solvent is we still have to

remove the dirt so here's a microscope

slide with a little bit of grease on it

and if we put a drop of solvent on there

imagine that this is you know the best

solvent in the world and it instantly

dissolves all the grease if we don't do

anything and we just let the droplets

sit there what's happening is we now

have a mix of all the dirt plus the

solvent and if we wait long enough all

the solvent is going to evaporate away

and 100% of the dirt that we started

with it's still going to be there so an

important part of cleaning with a

solvent is

having a flow or using some mechanical

means to remove the dirt so let's take a

look at that in the simplest case we

could just use a paper towel I mean a

rag or a paper cloth is fine and what

happens is the solvent will allow the

grease to be dissolved and then it comes

off in the cloth and the space between

the fibers in the cloth or what catch

the dirt and allow it to be removed

however there's a slight problem with

this even if your cloth is really

absorbent and is able to pull as much of

the grease as you can see off of the

surface there's still a vanishingly thin

layer of grease left on there so let me

show you a test that will allow you to

see if there's a thin layer of grease

left here's the slide that looks clean

but if we just take a regular old jet of

distilled water and spray it on the

apparently clean section we can see the

water actually pulls away from the glass

let me switch over to a piece of

stainless steel so it's easier to see it

looks very clean but if we try the the

water test on it we can see that the

water just beads up and what should be

happening if the surface was really

really clean was that the water would

form a nice sheet across it the water

would sheet off having a surface that

passes the water break test in other

words allows the water to sheet off and

not beat up is important if you want to

paint or put an adhesive on this surface

if your last project that involved paint

didn't work out so well it's possible

because that the surface wasn't prepped

properly and it's a very sensitive test

so if you use one of the methods that

I'm going to show you in this video to

clean the surface such that it passes

the water break test and then you just

leave this sitting around in the air for

a day or two just the random amount of

oil and dirt floating around in the air

will actually cause it to fail the test

after just sitting around for a day or

two so it is a very dirty world and it

takes a lot of effort to clean things

and keep them clean so I mentioned that

the main problem with using a paper

towel to clean something off is that it

just pushes the solvent and the dirt

around and there isn't really any

removal of the dirt even if you use pure

solvent and you change paper towels off

and you're still going to be

a very thin film of grease on the

surface and this is partially because

the solvents that you buy at the

hardware store aren't pure anyway and if

you want to have a really good painting

job or a really good adhesive job that

last layer of grease has to go so one of

the sneaky ways that we can get around

this problem is to boil the solvent in a

container and then let the vapor drift

up and I'm going to just dip the slide

into the vapor that's in this beaker and

what will happen is the solvent vapor

will condense onto the slide and then

the grease will dissolve or the dirt in

this case the permanent marker will

dissolve and drip off down into the

bottom of the beaker so let's see how

that works it's extremely effective and

what's cool about it is that the boiling

vapor of the boiling solvent just

condenses on the slide and the dirt

stays down in the liquid there because

it doesn't boil it's much less volatile

and if with the right selection of

solvents and everything the slide even

dries itself so the thing is really

really effective and what I'm showing

here is actually trichloroethylene which

is how they clean circuit boards and

lots of other things in the 80s before

we found out that chlorinated

hydrocarbons weren't so good but you

just saw how amazingly effective this is

let's try this on a more demanding

application here's a slide with some

authentic rode grease from the bottom of

my car smeared on there so we'll put

this into the vapor stream and see what

happens very effective and so most of

the of the grease has just dripped off

and you can see there's a few spots

where it's still a little stuck that was

probably nonpolar dirt like literal dirt

from the earth you know earth smeared on

there that's just holding on by a very

weak sort of physical connection you can

also see that the effectiveness of the

vapor cleaning goes down the longer that

the slide is in there and the reason is

that when the slide is cold it condenses

a lot of vapor onto those onto the slide

and that's what causes the washing

action whereas after it's been in the

bath for a while it's warmed up so we'll

take it out and just kind of let it cool

to air temperature and give it another

pass and see how that goes what's

interesting is the dirt that's left on

the slide is completely dry there's not

a trace of the grease left in there

because the solvent cleaning is so

effective

and so if we just use one of these air

dusters it actually just blows away the

remaining dirt entirely and there's like

a trace of something left so if you were

designing an industrial cleaning process

for this maybe a trip through the vapor

cleaning and then an air blast and then

a trip through there again would be a

sufficient as you can see all the dirt

is left in the bottom of the beaker and

if you can if you watch carefully you

might be able to see the vapor coming

out as I mentioned the trick with this

is that as it's boiling it's only the

vapor that comes up in the dirt stays

down there but the problem is that I

just released a whole bunch of volatile

organic compounds into the atmosphere

chlorinated volatile organic compounds

on top of all that and you know that

this process isn't really used

industrially so much because the

escaping solvents are bad and then even

if you capture the solvents you have to

do something with the dirty like the

really sludge at the bottom that's you

know saturated with the solvents so

let's look at another alternative for

getting that last film of oil off of

something if you need to critically

clean something that doesn't involve

solvent cleaning okay so here we are

with the piece of metal that looks clean

but is failing the water test and just

to show that this is not going to work

with the solvent approach we're going to

take fresh legs of propanol right out of

the bottle

fresh kimwipe right out of the box and

try to clean it and so you'd think well

we're doing a really good job cleaning

it now it was a completely new kimwipe

and new solvent and we'll try the water

break test you can see the alcohol is

evaporating away it's better it looks a

slightly better than it was that you can

still see the water is beating up so if

we wanted to paint this I'd be concerned

that the paint would flake off in short

order because it's just not going to get

a good bond there because of that last

remaining film of oil and we also

determined we can't use the solvent

cleaning option because it's

environmentally you know a problem

luckily there is another alternative and

that's to use a substance that

chemically converts the dirt that's on

the surface so instead of using a

solvent that just sort of pushes the

dirt away or dissolves it and then

washes it away

if we use something like this that

contains bleach the bleach will actually

oxidize those hydrocarbons

that film of oil that's on the surface

and converted into a different substance

so instead of just pushing the dirt away

we're actually actively changing it so

let's try a little bit of this stuff and

we're just going to use plain old water

and I'll try to do half of it so that we

can see the water break test is

different on the other side and then we

should be able to just rinse with plain

old water and as you can see it's

already significantly different so if I

turn it this way so that this was the

half we treated and the other half is

untreated you can see that side is just

beating up just like it was when we

started this side is now passing the

water break test quite well and this is

what you want to see before painting

something because then you'll know that

you've got that last bit of film off so

the takeaway point is that just because

a solvent is you know extremely

aggressive and potentially banned for

being a health problem and all that

doesn't actually necessarily make it

more suited to your cleaning task if

you're prepping a surface for a pain

definite and your surface can tolerate

being wet using a cleaner like this is

actually really good it's mildly

abrasive it includes an oxidizer and

basically a soap to get the PERT the

part as clean as possible

I learned this trick from Dan Gelbart

and I'll put a link in the description

who has a whole bunch of really great

videos that are worth watching but let's

say your part can't tolerate being wet

and you can't use solvents like this

because they're falling out of favor and

you still want to clean your hydrocarbon

gunk off the surface there are more

alternatives and one of them that's

pretty hot these days is using liquid or

supercritical co2 I have a number of

videos about supercritical co2 and this

is the chamber that I've shown in

previous videos even though co2 is a gas

and you're probably not thinking of it

as a cleaning solvent if you compress

co2 and make it into a liquid and then

heat it up to make it into a

supercritical substance it's actually a

really good solvent it's so good that

dry cleaners use it again because it's

not wet and so you can't get the garment

wet but if you put the shirt into a

chamber with liquid co2 and make it go

super Critic

you can actually clean oil stains out

with that and everyone likes co2 because

it's a totally inert solvent you can

just release it to the atmosphere and

it's it's totally fine it's such a good

solvent that my chamber which is built

out of acrylic is actually slowly

dissolved by the supercritical co2 that

it's containing and so I would not use

this chamber to hold the the substance

for a very long time I've only you know

let it sit in there for a couple days at

most and it'll take a long time for the

supercritical co2 to penetrate through

this thickness of plastic but what's

interesting is that you can see it's

sort of got the case of the bends here

let me show you what it looks like

here's what one of the acrylic windows

looks like after it's been at pressure

for a while and then decompresses as you

can see it's got a one heck of a case of

a bends and so what's happened is the

liquid co2 is penetrated into the

plastic and then over the course of an

hour or two the co2 decompressed and

this was a very soft material because

the solvent was working on it but

there's actually another cool invention

that lets you use the cleaning power of

co2 outside of a chamber there's at

least one company that makes a co2

cleaning gun and it basically works by

having a large tank of liquid co2 and a

nozzle and the idea is that when you

open the valve you get a stream of co2

liquid that's coming off the pipe and

when it hits the atmospheric pressure

air it freezes into co2 dry ice and then

the dry ice snow basically hits the

surface that you want to clean and as it

strikes the surface it converts

momentarily back to a liquid and solvent

cleans the surface and then continues

off into a gas and blows away so the

idea is that you're able to sort of blow

the dirt off of surface in one fell

swoop using the cleaning power of liquid

co2 so I've tried to get this to work

let's zoom in on this slide where I've

got a little bit of grease on it and I'm

gonna use this nozzle here and just see

if we can clean it this way

as you can see I'm not really having

much luck with it well I'll put a link

in the description and I've seen their

product actually worked quite well so

don't don't take my word that it's that

it's no good but the concept is really

cool and it actually is used for

cleaning glass and optics because it

actually is very gentle on the surface

and leaves no trace since the co2 just

completely evaporates right away this is

actually water vapor just because it's

so cold I think their guns the chips of

co2 in a room-temperature Airstream to

try to prevent the condensation problem

I thought we done with a less common but

really interesting cleaning problem this

is a bowl from my kitchen and you might

have some in your house that look like

this - do you see the sort of the

scratches at the bottom those are

actually not scratches in the porcelain

it's actually a metal deposit left from

metal utensils scratching it so you can

see that we scratched the bowl what's

happening is the porcelain of the bowl

is much harder than the metal of the

fork and it's leaving some of the metal

on the surface of the bowl and depending

what kind of metal your utensils are

made of this might be not so hard to

clean off or it might be almost

impossible so you can get in there with

you know comet is a good choice because

it's slightly abrasive and you might be

able to with enough rubbing get that off

however there are some metals that will

leave a mark and you will not be able to

get them off with any household cleaner

and cleaners so I've got this titanium

bar here and we'll leave a nice big

scrape with the titanium and believe me

there's no amount of scrubbing with

comet that's going to get that off and

the reason is that the titanium deposits

a little bit of metal on here because

again because the porcelain is harder

than the titanium even and then after a

few minutes the titanium forms a very

tough oxide skin on this metal which is

why this is so corrosion resistant it

forms a protective oxide layer and the

titanium oxide is just as hard as the

porcelain so if we were to go in here

with an abrasive we would be rubbing the

bowl

'we just as effectively as we were

rubbing this oxide protected band of

titanium so it's really an effective way

to mark glass and porcelain permanently

and in fact they even sell titanium pens

for artists that work with glass and

they can sign their name with the

titanium pen and it's practically

indelible however let me show you a

secret chemical blend that will get this

off very effectively okay so the magic

cleaning solution that will instantly

take off that mark I'm going to mix up

in this little bottle and it is ten

parts by volume just plain water and the

exact quantities are actually not so

critical for this for this recipe one

part hydrogen peroxide and you cannot

use bog-standard like two or three

percent hydrogen peroxide you have to

use something like eighteen percent is

commonly available on eBay and then the

really secret ingredient fairly

concentrated hydrofluoric acid this is

about 50 percent or forty eight percent

I think is the theoretical maximum and

it'll be one part by volume of that and

I know the safety guys are already

jumping out of their seats yeah it's

pretty bad stuff just don't let it get

on your skin unlike chemicals that are

pyrophoric or explosive or react with

everything I actually don't think this

is so bad but definitely don't let this

get on your skin using it is pretty

straightforward you just want to get a

little bit onto a a rag let me zoom in

so you can see this

takes it off lickety-split

the name given to this substance is

called piranha and it works by a very

clever technique it relies on both the

hydrogen peroxide and the hydrofluoric

acid since I mentioned the titanium

forms this protective oxide layer what

happens is the hydrofluoric acid etch is

away that titanium dioxide and exposes

fresh metal and then the hydrogen

peroxide oxidizes that exposed titanium

surface and creates more oxide and then

the hydrofluoric h's that away so it's

kind of this combination symbiotic

reaction that kind of that is able to

clean it off so effectively so it does

etch glass very slowly but the dilution

is low enough where if you just rub it

on there for a while you notice there's

really no surface problem it's not like

there's a trench or anything edged into

it okay hope you found that interesting

I'll probably do some more videos on

specific cleaning things so let me know

if you have any questions see you next

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